Instructions

Trim any large pieces of silver skin from the elk rack, taking care to remove as little meat as possible. Season the rack generously with kosher salt and place it on a rack in the refrigerator, uncovered, for at least 1 hour. This helps season the meat and dry the surface so it can take on a better crust.

Prepare a two-zone hardwood fire, with a medium-low zone for gently cooking the elk and alliums and a hotter direct-heat zone for searing.

While the elk rests, make the compound butter. In a small mortar and pestle, crush the toasted juniper berries until fragrant. In a small food processor, combine the softened butter, crushed juniper, lemon zest, lemon juice, black garlic, herbs and a pinch of salt. Process until well combined. Transfer to a bowl, or roll into a log and chill until firm. Let the butter soften slightly before serving; you want it to slump over the hot meat, not melt into a sauce.

Grill the spring onions or scallions over medium-low heat, turning often, until charred on the outside and tender inside, about 12 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter to rest. Grill the leeks the same way, turning as needed, until charred, smoky and tender, about 15 to 18 minutes. Grill the red onion wedges until charred and softened.

When the alliums are cool enough to handle, trim the root ends from the spring onions or scallions and cut them into bite-size pieces. Remove any overly burnt outer layers from the leeks and red onions, then cut into pieces. Arrange the warm alliums on a platter. Dress with olive oil, kosher salt, plenty of cracked black pepper and a splash of sherry wine vinegar. Finish with chopped chives or parsley.

Remove the elk from the refrigerator. Rub lightly with oil and season generously with cracked black pepper.

Place the elk rack over the cooler side of the grill and cook gently until the internal temperature reaches about 105 to 110°F. Move the rack to the hotter side of the grill. Add the soaked hay to the coals underneath or beside the meat and cover with a large metal bowl or grill lid to trap the smoke. Let the elk smoke and sear for a couple of minutes, turning as needed, until the outside is deeply browned and the internal temperature reaches 120 to 125°F. Do not cook past 130°F.

Transfer the elk to a cutting board and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. Do not rush this step. Elk is lean, and the rest is what keeps it juicy.

Slice the rack into chops, cutting cleanly between the bones. Arrange the chops on a platter with the charred allium salad alongside. Spoon or slice the black garlic-juniper butter over the warm elk so it softens into the meat. Serve immediately.

Tips

• Rest the rack longer than you think you need to. Elk tightens when rushed.
• Save the charred spring onion tops. Blend them with olive oil, herbs and salt for a smoky vinaigrette or sauce.