Instructions

Place the cow head in a very large stockpot or turkey-fryer pot with the back of the head positioned toward the bottom. The tongue, cheeks, lips and jaw should be submerged; it is fine if the very tip of the nose remains above the water.

Add enough water to cover the head as much as possible. Add the peppercorns, bay leaves, carrots, celery, garlic and onions. Cover the pot and bring the water to a gentle simmer. Do not allow it to boil aggressively.

Cook for 6 to 8 hours, maintaining a gentle simmer and adding hot water as necessary. The head is ready when the cheeks are completely fork-tender. At that point, the tongue and other small muscles will also be cooked through.

Turn off the heat and let the head rest in the broth for about 2 hours. This keeps it warm while making it easier and safer to handle.

Meanwhile, make the salsa roja. Toast the guajillo and árbol chiles briefly on a dry plancha or skillet until fragrant, taking care not to burn them. Transfer to a bowl, cover with simmering water and let soak until softened, about 20 minutes.

Char 2 of the tomatoes, the garlic and onion over the fire or on a hot plancha. Leave the third tomato raw to provide freshness and additional juice. Peel away any heavily burned skin from the vegetables.

Drain the softened chiles. Combine them in a blender with the charred tomatoes, raw tomato, garlic, onion and a generous pinch of salt. Blend until smooth. Season with lime juice and additional salt. When the salsa is excessively thin, simmer it briefly until slightly thickened.

For the avocado-tomatillo salsa, char the tomatillos, serranos, garlic and onion over the fire or on a hot plancha. Remove any heavily burned skin from the vegetables. Blend with the cilantro, lime juice and salt until smooth.

Scoop the avocado into a bowl and mash it with a fork or whisk. Stir in the tomatillo mixture until creamy and fully combined. This should be a pourable salsa rather than a chunky guacamole. Taste and adjust the lime and salt.

Carefully lift the cow head from the broth with the help of another person and transfer it to a large work surface.

While the head is still warm, remove the tongue. Peel away and discard the tough outer skin, then slice the tongue into thick pieces. Pull out the cheeks and remove as much meat as possible from around the jaw, lips, nose, neck and behind the tongue. Discard large pieces of cartilage, connective tissue and excess fat.

To remove the brain, have the butcher split the skull in advance whenever possible. Carefully lift out the brain, checking it thoroughly for any small pieces of bone. Keep the cheeks, tongue, brain and other head meats separated so diners may choose their favorites.

Heat a plancha or large cast-iron griddle over high heat and lightly grease it with beef fat or oil. Crisp the cheek meat and other fatty pieces until deeply browned and crunchy at the edges. Gently crisp the brain in a small amount of fat. Mark the tongue directly on the grill or plancha until browned, then slice it into taco-size pieces.

Warm the corn tortillas on the plancha with a small amount of beef fat until pliable and lightly charred. Stack them in a towel to keep warm. Use a single tortilla for tacos served immediately and double them when assembling a large batch in advance.

Fill the tortillas with tongue, cheek, brain or a little of everything. Top with salsa roja or avocado-tomatillo salsa, minced onion, cilantro, cotija and a squeeze of lime. Serve immediately.

Tips

• Ask the butcher to clean and split the head. It makes the head easier to fit in the pot and provides far safer access to the brain.
• Do not rush the simmer. The cheeks are the best indicator of doneness; once they are fork-tender, the rest of the head is ready.
• The meats are delicious straight from the broth, but crisping them on a plancha creates the contrasting texture that makes these tacos exceptional.