Matt Lightner weaves his magic in Tribeca with a cutting edge 20-course menu highlighting several unusual combinations: sea urchin with carrots in a lobster emulsion, aged lamb tartare coupled with rendered spot prawns, a chicken and shrimp dumpling in a chicken and black truffle veloute, a unique lobster roll in meringue, and Monterey Bay abalone paired with pork loin.
77 Worth Street, New York, N.Y. 10013. 212.226.1444. ateranyc.com.

Serving sushi and other Japanese dishes which rival Tokyo’ s best, Chef Takayama opens with five or six stunning courses such as Toro with osetra caviar, grilled sea urchin, hairy crab in a cucumber sauce, very special Japanese omi beef with white truffles (a major supplement), or when in season blowfish served as skin, liver and intestine and then grilled on the bone. Sitting at the counter is essential to watching the skills of the chefs.
10 Columbus Circle, Time Warner Center, 4th Floor, New York, N.Y. 10019. 212.823.9807. masanyc.com.

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Photo Credit: Deborah Jones

Per Se

Complementing service which might be second to none, Chef de Cuisine Eli Kaimeh executes Thomas Keller’s 13-course menu to perfection. We enjoyed both the regular and vegetarian menus which offered highlights in every course including its traditional white truffle infused custard with a ragout of black winter truffles, butter poached Nova Scotia lobster “mitts” with slow baked beets, Elysian Fields lamb with smoked ricotta tortellini, an avocado and sweet corn float with Greek yoghurt and pepper relish, and a watermelon tartare with mango puree, mustard cress and cornichons. A Sunday lunch here with such strong technical cooking and the view of Central Park is a special experience.
10 Columbus Circle #4, New York, N.Y. 10019. 212.823.9335. perseny.com