Where to Eat in the Heart of Burgundy
By Bob & Sue
The most interesting food is not always found in the Michelin-starred restaurants, but often in the local bistros. During our six days in Burgundy recently, we had many memorable experiences in the city of Beaune and surrounding areas:
Le Bistro
At the gathering place for many of the local winemakers, chef/owner Johan Bjorkland presides over a diverse menu offering classic terrines, kidneys “Freddie Giradet” style, and robust tableside servings of roast chicken, veal chops and beef for two. Deep but expensive wine list.
5 Rue Samuel Legay, 21200 Beaune, France / +33 3 80 25 94 14
Ma Cuisine
A legendary Beaune classic offering all the traditional Burgundian dishes including the best beef bourguigone in town, escargot, jambon persille and a delicious rabbit compote. Order ala carte and peruse the lengthy wine list.
Passage Saint-Hélène, 21200 Beaune, France / +33 3 80 22 30 22
Ciboulette
A benchmark for the best eggs meurette in Beaune, this long time food landmark delivers well prepared food including leg of rabbit and lamb chops at reasonable prices.
69 Rue de Lorraine, 21200 Beaune, France / +33 3 80 24 70 72
Boulevard 21
This new restaurant offers satisfying interpretations of classic dishes including beef cheek bourguignon, sweetbreads in cream sauce, crayfish soup and duck pie with foie gras. Excellent and reasonably priced wine list.
21 Boulevard Saint jacques, 21200 Beaune, France / +33 3 80 21 00 21
La Lune
This tiny Japanese-French bistro can be a difficult reservation. It features delicious small plates of sea bass carpachio, tuna with balsamic, pigeon, fried chicken and unusual combinations which work such as pork belly with turnips. Well priced wine list.
32 Rue Maufoux, 21200 Beaune, France / +33 3 80 20 77 42
Bistrot de Cocotte
A little unpretentious gem on the Place Madeline, it offers classical Burgundian dishes at reasonable prices including excellent salads and a nice variety of meats.
3 Place Madeleine, 21200 Beaune, France / +33 3 80 22 17 82
Outside Beaune:
Abbaye de la Bussiere
Located an hour north of Beaune in an elegant 12th century chateau, Chef Emmanual Hebrard featured delicious fall lunch selections in his Bistro des Moines. Particularly memorable were his pheasant pie in a Rouennaise sauce, mushroom veloute , guinea fowl breast and leg with chestnuts and pumpkin puree, and beef sirloin served with crispy paper thin parsley and garlic potatoes. Worth the drive for the atmosphere and the experience.
D33, 21360 La Bussière-sur-Ouche, France / +33 3 80 49 02 29
Bistro Bord de L’eau
A favorite lunch spot of the locals offering good value in Levernoise. The menu includes many classic dishes such as escargot in garlic cream with cepes and duck breast in a vermouth reduction sauce.
8 Rue du Golf, 21200 Levernois, France / +33 3 80 24 89 58
La Cabotte
In nearby Nuit St. Georges, this intimate spot is a favorite of local winemakers offering traditional fare such as jambon persille and beef bourguigone and contemporary takes on veal sweetbreads and crab cannelloni Madagascar style. Solid wine list.
24 Grande Rue, 21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges, France / +33 3 80 61 20 77
Bistrot Lucien
Located in Gevrey Chambertin, this has quickly become the place to eat in the northern Cote de Nuit serving fresh, innovative food including quenelle in seafood sauce, breaded pig trotter with gribiche sauce (mayonnaise and herbs) and many well presented Burgundian favorites.
6 Rue du Chambertin, 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin, France / +33 3 80 34 33 20