Devour Rome
One of the cradles of Western civilization, Rome is a city full of globally influential art, culture and architecture. Over 4 million tourists flock to the Italian capital every year, visiting ancient Roman ruins, hoping to catch a glimpse of the pope in Vatican City, and, often times, binging on Italian gelato, pizza and pasta. Over the past decade, menus in the Eternal City have once again begun highlighting classic Roman fare steeped in tradition, echoing its regional identity. From on-the-go street food to century-old traditional Italian eateries, here are a few places to try.
La Pergola
Let’s start with the best of the best: La Pergola. It’s Rome’s only three Michelin starred restaurant, an opulent, glowing space bedecked with priceless art, antiques (a rare Aubusson tapestry amongst their most prized) and the one thing that simply can’t be replicated —the panoramic view of the Eternal City. Stunners include sea bass carpaccio with cannellini beans and white truffle, but you can’t leave without tasting his beloved fagottelli La Pergola, their take on carbonara, a pasta filled with bacon and zucchini in a veal-infused white wine sauce. If weather permits, enjoy your meal on their candlelit terrace.
La Pergola / Via Alberto Cadlolo 101, Rome / +39 06 35091
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Asino d’Oro
At the helm of this casual trattoria is Chef Lucio Sforza, who focuses on Umbrian dishes using local Roman ingredients. The great prices will have you coming back again and again to try things like the cinghiale al cioccolato (wild boar stewed in chocolate and red wine) and fresh, tender pastas.
Asino d’Oro / Via del Boschetto 73, 00184 Rome / +39 06 4891 3832
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Roscioli
Credit: Aromi Creativi
For a salumi addict like me, an afternoon snacking session at Restaurant Roscioli is the stuff of dreams. Located near the Campo de Fiori, it’s a super casual spot specializing in house-cured meats, a vast array of decadent cheeses and plenty of European wines. Start out with a selection of Italian prosciutti or splurge on their jamon Iberico gran reserva. Beyond antipasti, try the authentic carbonara with crispy pork cheek or the terrine of house-made foie gras with butter cooked apple sauternes.
Roscioli / Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, 00186 Rome / +39 06 687 5287
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Filetti di Baccalà
Battering and frying fillets of salt cod is just about all this little place does, but it’s all it needs to do. Simply fantastic crispy and hot fried cod is a delicious pick me up as you stroll around the Campo di Fiori.
Filetti di Baccalà / Largo dei Librari 88, Rome / +39 06 686 4018
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Pizzarium
Chef Gabriele Bonci, dubbed the Michelangelo of Pizza, loves to experiment with toppings at his no-frills pizzeria. His repertoire includes some 1,500 variations, but only 20 are offered on any given day–so if you fall in love with that ham and artichoke or LSD pie (topped with licorice, sausage and dates), think of it as a culinary one night stand and just appreciate the moment. There is no seating, so take your slice to go and enjoy it standing on the street.
Pizzarium / Via della Meloria 43, 00136 Rome / +39 06 3974 5416
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Flavio al Velavevodetto
Credit: Travel Channel
If you’re looking for offal in the Eternal City, this restaurant in the heart of the Testaccio neighborhood is a must. Flavio de Maio is uncompromisingly attached to fifth quarter Roman classics like pajata—intestine of a young calf that has only eaten mother’s milk, sautéed with onion, carrot, celery and white wine, then braised in tomato sauce. It’s the most beautiful preparation of veal there is. If you aren’t a fan of organ meat, then try the twice-fried artichokes, or carciofi alla Giudia. They’re divine.
Flavio al Velavevodetto / 97 Via di Monte Testaccio, 00153 Rome / +39 06 574 4194
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Il San Lorenzo
This trendy seafood restaurant features brick ceilings, shining chandeliers and stark white tablecloths. The eight-course tasting menu is the way to go with cuttlefish-ink tagliatelle, farro spaghetti with fresh anchovies, and local tuna with herbs and sweet-and-sour onions.
Il San Lorenzo / Via dei Chiavari 4/5, 00186 Rome / +39 06 686 5097
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Da Felice
Da Felice A Testaccio has been owned and operated by the Trivelloni family since 1936. They use fresh ingredients to create old-school Roman dishes that keep their white-clothed tables full year round (reservations are a must). Don’t miss the tonnarelli cacio e pepe (plump egg noodles with sharp sheep’s cheese and freshly ground black pepper), bucatini all’amatriciana (hollow bucatini noodles simmered in a luscious tomato, bacon, and chili sauce topped with pecorino), and, last but not least, saltimbocca alla romana (thin cuts of tender veal veiled in sage and ham).
Da Felice / Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, Rome / +39 06 574 6800
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Osteria San Cesareo
This small and authentic osteria is about 20 minutes outside of Rome, but hands down, it’s worth the trip. It offers a real taste of Roman country cooking that can’t be found at many restaurants. Try anything and everything that peaks your interest.
Osteria San Cesareo / Via Filippo Corridoni 60, 00030 San Cesareo Rome / +39 06 958 7950
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Pipero Al Rex
Credit: Hotel Rex Rome
A meat-lovers paradise, Pipero Al Rex boasts an ever-changing menu featuring thoughtful preparations of locally-raised proteins like goose, rabbit and even piglet. Sophisticated and intimate, Pipero’s dining room is perfect for enjoy the tasting menu and bottle of fine wine with your sweetheart.
Pipero Al Rex / Via Torino, 149, 00184 Rome / +39 06 481 5702
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Testaccio Market
This covered market houses over 100 vendors selling all types of delicious foods from classic roman sandwiches to Sicilian bakeries and fresh hand-made pastas. Here are three of my can’t miss stalls.
Go to this stand for the arancina con pistachio e ragusano, a fried rice ball stuffed with pistachio and ragusano cheese. It’s fantastic.
Box 66 / +39 393 240 7323
At Mordi e Vai, Sergio Esposito makes sandwiches with ancient family recipes. I loved the tripe sandwich prepared Roman-style in red sauce, and the veal kidney and onion sandwich.
Box 15 / +39 33 9134 3344
If you only eat one thing at the Testaccio Market, try the sugar-dusted twice-baked cookies at Da Artenio, made from a 100-year-old recipe. I would trade everything I’ve eaten for the past year for another bite of these cookies.
Box 90
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Pizzeria Ostiense
The spectacular pizza—with a paper-thin crust and fresh, local toppings—is enough of a reason to eat here, but the fried zucchini flowers filled with top-quality mozzarella and salty anchovies are some of the best in the city.
Pizzeria Ostiense / Via Ostiense 56, 00154 Rome / +39 06 5730 5081
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Il Norcino Bernabei
Open since 1912, Il Norcino Bernabei is a family operation, run by Vitaliano Bernabei, his wife and son. For the past century, it’s been regarded as the finest meat shop of its kind, getting the highest quality ingredients from Italian farmers they know and trust. Vitaliano’s capicola is unparalleled. The head cheese, made from his grandfather’s recipe, includes meat from all over the pig with chiles and preserved citrus. It’s best in class. Vitaliano most revered talent? He’s the undisputed master of porchetta; it’s in his DNA.
Il Norcino Bernabei / Corso Vittoria Colonna 13, 00193 Rome / +39 06 938 7897
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Il Pagliaccio
Tucked away in the back streets near the center of Rome, Il Pagliaccio’s head chef, Anthony Genovese brings international ingredients into traditional Italian dishes. Expect complex flavor combinations like tender pasta pillows filled with onion, tapioca and red currants drizzled with saffron broth, or duck breast in rich, creamy, hazelnut milk. Reservations are required, so plan ahead.
Il Pagliaccio / Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 129/a, 00186 Rome / +39 06 6880 9595
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Antico Arco
Credit: Antico Arco
Perched atop Ginaicolo Hill, Antico Arco serves refined Italian food in an intimate yet contemporary atmosphere with beautiful white brick walls and dark furniture. The food is a mix of creative and traditional preparations— think black truffle spaghetti carbonara with guanciale; pan-fried scallops with ginger and roasted red pepper puree; and, for dessert, a soft almond cookie with tart raspberry sorbet and green tea mousse.
Antico Arco / Piazzale Aurelio, 7, 00152 Rome / +39 06 581 5274
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Il Gelato di San Crispino
Fanatics rave about their caramel gelato with bits of crispy, perfectly preserved meringue. I can’t stop eating their seasonal fruit flavors like Seville orange, tart grapefruit, and vibrant Antofagasta grape, made with the prized variety imported from Chile. Multiple locations dot the city, so whether you just tossed a coin into Trevi Fountain or finished a hot lap around the Pantheon, there’s likely one nearby.
San Crispino / Via della Panetteria 42, 00187 Rome / +39 06 679 3924
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Il Sorriso
Located just outside of Rome in the Prima Porta suburb, relax in a casual atmosphere and enjoy traditional Italian favorites like rigatoni carbonara topped table-side with salty Pecorino Romano cheese.
Il Sorriso / Via Giangiacomo Caraglio 51, 00188 Rome
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Trapizzino
Credit: Travel Channel
Stefano Callegari invented the trapizzino sandwich made of pizza dough squares that’ve been baked, halved and then filled. They’re like hot pockets with delicious Roman fillings—oxtail braised in olive oil, tomato, onion and celery; or cold poached veal tongue in a green herb sauce—and they make for a perfect on-the-go lunch.
Trapizzino / Via Giovanni Branca 88, 00153 Rome / +39 06 4341 9624
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Al Ceppo
For old school elegance, a meal at Al Ceppo is a must. Open since 1964, it’s the kind of special occasion place families visit for generations. They offer fabulous pastas, like pappardelle with chestnuts, wild boar ragù and yellow pumpkin, but save room for items from the grill. You can’t go wrong with the grilled cuttlefish in pesto sauce and dried tomatoes, grilled lamb chopped with sautéed broccoli, or crispy veal with herbs.
Al Ceppo / Via Panama 2, 00198 Rome / +39 06 841 9696
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Imàgo
Credit: Hassler Roma
On the sixth floor of the Hassler Hotel, Imàgo has one of the greatest panoramic views of the city center, Borghese gardens, Capitol Hill, the Pantheon and many other historic structures. Try the signature tasting menu, which starts with foie gras and red-miso seared mackerel, and after seven scrumptious plates, ends with the classic shell-shaped Italian pastry sfogliatella “samosa style,” with red fruit and green tea.
Imàgo / Piazza Trinità dei Monti, 6, 00187 Rome / +39 06 6993 4726
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Il Convivio
Run by the three Troiani brothers, Il Convivio offers refined versions of quintessential Italian dishes. The well-trained staff will attend to all your needs while you dine on the likes of red mullet carpaccio with green pepper, herbs and wild strawberries, and tagliatelle with duck sauce, orange, porcini mushrooms and spinach salad.
Il Convivio / Vicolo dei Soldati 31, 00186 Rome / +39 06 686 9432