SUNSHINE TAVERN, PORTLAND, OR
A pancake isn’t always just a pancake; in the hands of the right chef, it can be something truly surprising and different. Exhibit A: a crispy, golden, savory number courtesy of chef Jenn Louis. On first glance it appears innocuous enough, but one bite tells you you’ve moved into another realm. “We all crave crispy and crunchy,” says Louis, who adds a bit of cornmeal and cornstarch for textural intrigue. The result is a snappy brunch pancake that pays homage to Louis’s love of Korean food. She recommends dipping the pancake in the reserved kimchi liquid, a daring departure from standard maple syrup.
Recipe from America’s Best Breakfasts by Lee Brian Schrager & Adeena Sussman.
- 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 3 tablespoons medium-grind cornmeal, such as Bob’s Red Mill
- 3 tablespoons semolina flour
- 2 tablespoons cornstarch
- 1 1/2 cups kimchi, drained and chopped, 1/4 cup liquid reserved
- 1 1/3 cups ice-cold sparkling water
- 1/2 cup plus 8 teaspoons grapeseed or canola oil
- 4 large eggs
- Togarashi (Japanese chile flakes blend) to taste
- Lemon wedges, for serving
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, semolina, and cornstarch. Add the kimchi, sparkling water, and 2 tablespoons of the reserved kimchi liquid and stir to form a thick batter.
Heat a 6-inch nonstick skillet or crepe pan over high heat. Pour in 2 tablespoons of the oil, then 3⁄4 cup of the batter, tilting the pan to spread the batter to the edges of the skillet. Cook until the underside is crispy and golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and cook until the other side is browned, 1 to 2 more minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined rack to drain, then cook the remaining pancakes one at a time, using the remaining 6 tablespoons oil. Divide the pancakes among 4 plates.
Using 2 teaspoons of oil for each egg, cook the eggs in the skillet one at a time, sunny-side up. Top each pancake with a fried egg, togarashi, a sprinkle of the remaining kimchi liquid, and a lemon wedge.
Recipe from America’s Best Breakfasts by Lee Brian Schrager & Adeena Sussman. Photographs by Evan Sung.