Where to Eat in Paris’ Montmartre Neighborhood
Montmartre, in the north of Paris, has a long history of attracting artists and musicians. Famous painters like Van Gogh, Picasso, and Toulouse-Lautrec flocked to this neighborhood, still a refuge for Parisian bohemians. The area is flooded with a variety of accessible galleries and ateliers (or workshops), all clustered around the beautiful Sacre Coeur Basilica. About twenty minutes away from the center of Paris, it’s not the ideal location for a hotel stay if you plan on taking in everything the City of Lights offers, but it’s a destination well worth exploring for a day and no trip to the city is really complete without taking in this iconic neighborhood. Looking for a good meal? Take your pick of these places to eat while visiting Montmartre.
Morning
Panifica Boulangerie
Head straight to the Panifica Boulangerie. This bakery has everything from a sturdy French baguette, crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside, to delicious quiches. If you are craving a sweet snack, get a pain au chocolat aux amandes (a chocolate and almond croissant) with its slightly gooey inside, a buttery and flaky outside, and utterly to die for. If you’re not a fan of chocolate try the palmier, a traditional crisp arc of French pastry that Panifica does exceptionally well. For a quick lunch, they serve a variety of sandwiches (on freshly made mini baguette of course), BUT if you want to channel your inner Parisian, buy a baguette and head to one of the many local grocery stores to pick up some salami, cheese and wine. Take your picnic lunch to the grassy knoll in front of the Sacre Coeur. Nothing can beat that. The employees here are very kind and accommodating to every customer, local or not. My only regret is that I didn’t get the chance to try everything they make.
Panifica Boulangerie / 15 Avenue Trudaine, 75009, Paris / +33 01 53 20 91 18 / www.facebook.com/PanificaParis
Le Comptoir Belge
I like Comptoir Belge for an easy on-the-go breakfast (or lunch, or dinner, or snack…). They serve a handful of sweet Belgian waffles that are rich, golden brown, and topped with chantilly (French for whipped cream). You can order a variety of toppings, but the ‘totale belge’ is the way to go. They heat up the freshly prepared waffle, stuffing pieces of Belgian chocolate into the side, topping it with a healthy serving of whipped cream, and sprinkling on crumbled Speculoos (ginger cookies). Is your mouth watering yet?
Le Comptoir Belge / 58 Rue des Martyrs, 75009, Paris / +33 9 84 21 96 88
Noon
Le Coq Rico
Chef Antoine Westermann has made himself a mini empire in Paris; Le Coq Rico being one of four restaurants he owns. He wanted to share his love of poultry and everything it has to offer, making this restaurant a fabulous find for all lovers of chicken (the tagline for Le Coq Rico being ‘The Bistro for Beautiful Birds’). Make sure you check out the ‘Plat Du Jour‘ lunch special menu (Monday-Friday from 12:00pm to 2:30pm) which at 15 euros is a great price. The regular menu is a little too pricy for my budget, so I didn’t have a chance to try one of their signature egg starters, but they looked beautiful. I went on a Tuesday and had their take on the traditional coq au vin served with tagliatelle. The chicken was juicy and the wine sauce was velvety and flavorful. Tucked up on the hill of Montmartre, Le Coq Rico is in a great micro-neighborhood, sharing a street with some superb artisan’s shops and many other restaurants and cafes.
Le Coq Rico / 98 Rue Lepic, 75018, Paris / +33 1 42 59 82 89/ en.lecoqrico.com
Bululu Arepera
Bululu Arepera is a great little place for a casual lunch. A traditional Latin American street food, arepas are little sandwiches with various fillings stuffed inside of a crispy maize ‘bread’. Bululu is run by two young women who have big smiles and make delicious food. If you come in for lunch, you can get an arepa and a bowl of soup for 9 euros. Make sure you try the papelon con limon as well. It’s a house-made Venezuelan drink made with sugar cane pulp, water and lime juice. It’s refreshing, not too sweet and worth the extra 4 euros. I had the pabellon arepa with fried plantains, juicy pulled beef, mashed black beans and cheese. Top it your way with the spicy red sauce and/or the vibrant green sauce, both made in house.
Bululu Arepera / 20 Rue de la Fontaine du but, 75018, Paris / +33 1 42 54 96 25 / www.facebook.com/bululuarepera
Night
Le Moulin de la Galette
Situated under “Moulin Radet”, the only working windmill left in Montmartre, Le Moulin de la Galette is a classic French style bistro with lots of history. The famous Renoir painting, Bal du moulin de la Galette, depicts a scene of vibrant Parisian life, never complete without dancing and wine, that used to be found on this hillside in the summer afternoons. Now, Chef Antoine Heerah has brought back that spirit with a traditional atmosphere in the aptly named restaurant that serves classic bistro fare ranging from escargot (pictured above) to beef bourguignon and duck confit. Round out your dinner with the vanilla crème brûlée, and you, my friend, will be feeling like you belong in a jubilant Renoir painting.
Le Moulin de la Galette / 83 Rue Lepic, 75018, Paris / +33 01 39 80 69 55 / www.lemoulindelagalette.fr
The Bar Scene
The bar scene in Montmartre and the neighboring area, Pigalle, is worth checking out, even if for only an after dinner drink. These places serve fabulous craft cocktails, beer and wine. So go sip on something refreshing while rubbing shoulders with the local hipster crowd. No matter which one you choose, you can’t lose.
Artisan / 14 Rue Bochart de Saron, 75009, Paris / +33 01 48 74 65 38 / www.artisan-bar.fr
Glass / 7 Rue Frochot, 75009, Paris / +33 09 80 72 98 83 / www.glassparis.com
La Fourmi / 74 Rue des Martyrs, 75018, Paris / +33 01 42 64 70 35
Lulu White / 12 Rue Frochot, 75009, Paris /+33 09 83 58 93 32 / www.luluwhite.bar
About Devan Grimsrud
Growing up in the Land of 10,000 Lakes, Devan Grimsrud was born into a world where ketchup is considered by many to be a bit too spicy. Although this fostered a level of pickiness within her, she loves food and everything surrounding it. Her blog, Picky // Foodie, chronicles her quest for an adventurous palate, at home and abroad (check it out on Twitter, Instagram, & Facebook). She currently lives in Minneapolis and enjoys rock climbing, globetrotting, taking long walks in the woods and reading very late at night.